High-tech fabrics, lab-grown silks, and leathers can help, but we also need a societal mental shift in how we view clothing acquisition. British MPs have launched an inquiry into the fashion industry to determine the full extent of its environmental impact. The investigation will consider resource use, water footprint, and carbon impact throughout clothing’s life cycle to reestablish the industry as “thriving and sustainable.”
If fashion were a country, it is said that it would be the fourth biggest polluter on Earth. Those are ambitious words to describe an industry that’s currently the second most polluting one in the world. Achieving sustainability is a huge and very challenging goal. Lucy Siegle, the ethical fashion correspondent for The Guardian, has some thoughts on what could make the industry cleaner and greener. This past weekend, she published a list that features a mix of slow fashion, natural fabrics, and high-tech solutions. Some noteworthy picks from that list:
1) New and alternative fabrics
A world of natural fabrics made from banana plant stems and ‘fruit leathers’ is waiting to be developed. Siegle writes, “The Spanish brand Piñatex has already brought [such] fabrics to market; a square meter of pineapple leather uses 480 waste pineapple leaves and is half the cost of traditional cow leather (and, its proponents claim, comes at a fraction of the environmental cost of raising livestock).”
Seigle also touches on the versatility of yeast in growing ethical, eco-friendly alternatives to leather and silk. Modern Meadow, which we profiled on TreeHugger last summer, is one company doing this. Its cruelty-free leather is far less wasteful than ordinary leather because it comes printed in straight-edged sheets. Meanwhile, Bolt Threads is experimenting with using yeast to grow silk.
2) A greater appreciation for high-quality natural fibers
Wearing wool, silk, cashmere, and organic cotton will be viewed as a luxurious treat. These pieces will be purchased to keep them for prolonged periods, a kind of investment; they will be cared for attentively, protected, and handed down to subsequent generations. The fact that they do not shed plastic microfibres when washed will be important, as will how they are produced. “A new appraisal of naturals will favor regenerative wool growing: keeping sustainably sized flocks of sheep and goats on grassland, it is claimed, helps to sequester carbon, restore watersheds and benefit wildlife habitats.”
3) New forms of ownership
Clothing rental services will likely become more popular as people seek to update their wardrobes in more affordable, innovative ways. Choosing refurbished or upcycled clothing will be more common, as demonstrated by the increased number of retailers accepting their clothes back for resale at reduced prices. As clothes become more valued and expensive, their owners prioritize repairs over replacement and learn important maintenance skills, i.e., mending.
Some critics think that technological solutions are largely pointless and that the fashion industry is too far gone to be saved by these relatively small efforts. They argue that we must rethink our relationship with shopping and clothes and that no greenwashing or fancy tech innovation will solve the current problem. We must cure ourselves of the irrational need to shop, collect more clothing articles than we need, and buy things that do not fit right or complement our bodies simply because of the novelty appeal.
We need both influences in our lives. Seigle’s solutions are fascinating and hopeful; the more consumers demand quality and eco-friendly fabrics, the more clothing manufacturers adopt them. At the same time, though, consumption must be curbed. We must make do with what we have, make it last, and fight against the urge to buy new, even if it has all the eco-friendly, ethical certifications one could dream of.
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